After a pause, we continue our blog in a multi-part series. Here, we want to share a bit about Italian leathers, materials, tradition of leather making, and sustainability. Excellent tanneries are also found in other countries, but here we narrow our focus to Italy.
If you’ve ever admired a beautifully crafted leather bag, wallet, or belt and wondered what makes Italian leathers stand out, you’re not alone. Tanneries across the globe have perfected the art of leather production over centuries, using time-honored techniques to create some of the finest materials. Science and modern chemistry has taken tanning and finishing leathers to new heights. But the beauty of leather as a natural material has always stood the test of time when we speak of vegetable tanned leathers.
If you’re new to leather crafting, terms like “vegetable tanning”, “full-grain”, or “glazed finish” might feel overwhelming. That’s why we’ve put together this simple, no-nonsense guide to help you understand how leather is made, the finishing processes that give it unique textures and colors, and how hides are cut for different uses.
What Makes Leathers from Italy Special?
Italian leather is regarded as some of the finest in the world—and for good reason. It isn’t just about luxury; it’s about craftsmanship, tradition, and a relentless pursuit of quality. Here’s why Italian leather is in such high demand:
1. Centuries of Leatherworking Tradition
Italy’s leather craftsmanship dates back to the Middle Ages, with regions like Tuscany, Veneto, and Campania becoming famous for their tanneries. The knowledge has been passed down through generations, combining old-world techniques with modern innovations.
2. Ethical & Sustainable Practices
Unlike mass-produced leather that often relies on harsh chemicals, many Italian tanneries—especially those in the renowned “Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale” (Real Italian Leather Tannery Consortium, represented by the famous handprint icon) use eco-friendly vegetable tanning methods. These tanneries prioritize sustainability, using natural tannins and recycling water and by-products. Member tanneries that belong to this consortium are also certified by the Leather Working Group LWG, an auditing organization that performs periodic field inspections and certifications (Bronze, Silver, Gold, etc). Some legacy tanneries who are still in the process of being certified but yet make great vegetable tanned leathers may also deserve consideration. Italy, like many developed countries, have very high environmental standards these days, and tanneries are careful and take pride in adhering to the standards and regulations.
3. Exceptional Raw Materials
Italian leather is made from premium European cowhides, primarily sourced from cows raised for the meat industry. This ensures that the leather is a by-product of the food chain rather than the primary reason for cattle farming, making it an environmentally responsible choice. Because the industry is late to educating the public on this topic, you may see a lot of misinformation and mis-branding of plastic-additives-containing substitute products co-opting the term “leather” with a confusing term called “vegan”. The leather industry is organizing and battling against this obfuscation and is clarifying what “real leather” is about to the general public. You, as a crafter, have this responsibility like us in promoting the use of responsible and sustainable material choices, i.e., Leather.
In addition to cowhides, goat skins are also used in Italian leather production, particularly for luxury small goods and high-end accessories. Goat leather is prized for its softness, lightweight feel, and natural grain texture. The best goat skins often come from India, North Africa, and the Middle East, where traditional animal husbandry practices result in hides that are supple yet durable. These regions are known for producing thin yet strong skins with a unique natural resistance to wear and tear, making them ideal for gloves, bookbinding, and fine leather goods.
4. Unique Handcrafted Finishes
Italian leather is often hand-finished using specialized techniques that give it an unmatched character. Traditional methods like tamponato (hand-rubbed dyeing) and lucidatura a rullo (glazing with an agate stone) result in one-of-a-kind leathers that develop a deep, natural patina over time. You may have seen such a machine with a metal arm and a stone at the end, used to put shine on glazed/waxed hides, especially exotic skins. The machine is called a Glazing Jack. It produces a spectacular glassy shine on the leather.
5. Longevity & Aging Beautifully
Unlike synthetic or factory-finished leathers, vegetable tanned leather improves with age. High-quality vegetable-tanned leather develops a rich patina (“patina naturale”), becoming softer and more beautiful with time. This characteristic makes it a favorite for artisans who value longevity over trends.
… to be continued in Part 2 where we discuss some technical terms used in the industry, specifically in Italy.